Two Gutsy Girls Celebrate Their 50th Birthdays on an Epic Gravel Biking Adventure.
“Now that my Instagram algorithm delights in sending me reels about how to combat menopause flushes there is no denying the fact … this year I am turning 50”!...
Philippa Friary, Quinquagenarian Bikepacker
- Photography Riley McLay | New Zealand Cycling Journal
So, instead of giving into societal pressures and ushering in their 50s over an afternoon tea with their feet up, this is the inspirational story of two besties who decide to celebrate a half century of life by bikepacking together across some of the New Zealand’s best gravel roads in Central Otago. Along the way they reconnect with nature, reclaim lost confidence, and rediscover a wee bit of their inner rebel.

Travelling light and fast on gravel bikes.

The iconic high country scenery of Central Otago, with hundreds of kilometres of glorious gravel roads & trails.
In an ambitious 3-day bikepacking itinerary, Philippa and Elke covered a huge amount of ground. They traversed some of Central Otago’s most iconic backcountry gravel roads, frequented some classic old country pubs and concluded in style by celebrating their birthdays at one of Central’s oldest wineries.
Beginning in Tarras, the girls crossed the Dunstan Mountains via Thomson’s Saddle down to Omakau and then to the historic goldmining town of St Bathans for a night at the Vulcan Hotel… complete with a ghostly companion…
Day two took Philippa and Elke from St Bathans via the Manuherikia Valley and the stunning Hawkdun mountain Range to another former goldmining settlement, Naseby.
Culminating in a massive day of riding, day 3 took the intrepid quinquagenarians from Naseby to Clyde via the Old Dunstan Road – a must do for any gravel biker - and then onto the Otago Central Rail Trail, through Alexandra to finish at Monte Christo Winery in Clyde.

First stop, the Vulcan Hotel in historic St Bathans.

Landlord, Wayne, regales the girls with stories about the pub's resident ghost, Rosie...

The spectacular Blue Lake in St Bathans is a relict of the town's goldmining heritage.

Lengthy sections of the Rail Trail were useful connections to backcountry gravel roads.

With a proliferation of country pubs along its 152km length...

...the Otago Central Rail Trail is affectionately known as the "Ale Trail"!

Refuelling at the trustee Four Square in Ranfurly before tackling the mountainous Old Dunstan Road.

The Old Dunstan Road is an epic Central Otago gravel route, but not for the faint hearted!

Classic Central Otago landscapes.

A brief respite to enjoy views of the Poolburn Reservoir.

Old shepherd's huts dot the Central Otago landscape - the barrels are actually makeshift dog kennels.

Final destination - the historic Monte Christo Winery right on the Rail Trail in Clyde.

Well earned birthday celebrations with a glass of wine at Monte Christo Winery.
a more leisurely approach...
If cycling hundreds of kilometres, up and down mountains, and carrying all your own gear doesn't sound like you, then fear not! Check out one of the far more leisurely itineraries along the Otago Central Rail Trail. Take your time, ride short distances at a relaxed pace, and have all your bags transferred each day to your accommodation.
Reproduced with thanks to New Zealand Cycling Journal.
Special thanks to Liam, Philippa, Elka and photographer Riley.
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