Gravel Bash - Mountain Biking in Naseby
words and images by Geoff Marks
If you venture just a few kilometres from the Otago Central Rail Trail near Ranfurly, you'll discover a vast network of quiet, country backroads which are ideal for gravel bikes or mountain biking.
What's more, these backcountry roads invariably lead to iconic country pubs...
It usually all begins with a map...
Maps can stir the heart to adventure, they'll spark imagination and inspire wanderlust.
So, it's not surprising that most of the best missions usually start by poring over a map. Plotting a route, identifying hills or waypoints and, for most cyclists, highlighting coffee stops and pubs. This ritual can feel almost as gratifying as the ride itself.
If you're planning an excursion away from the Otago Central Rail Trail, you'll first need to find a decent map.
Google is a good start, or if you're looking to plot a detailed biking route through the Central Otago back blocks NZ Topo Map is your friend. View the map online or via the app - which includes GPS tracking!
For this weekend trip, we decided that Naseby would be an ideal base.
Naseby is a small historic gold-mining town located 15km from Ranfurly and the Central Otago Rail Trail.
At 2000 feet above "worry level", Naseby is a favourite kiwi holiday destination, but importantly for us it's the gateway to a huge network of gravel roads and some iconic Central Otago landscapes, as well as offering 50km of mountain bike tracks and trails in the nearby forest.
However, the route planning for this particular trip revolved around pies and pints with rides to the famous Danseys Pass Hotel and Waipiata Country Hotel for lunch.
Note: Naseby Transfers offer a shuttle service for Rail Trail users who want to stay in Naseby which saves riding the 15km detour off the trail.
Saturday - Danseys Pass Hotel
From Naseby its 17km to the historic Danseys Pass Hotel.
Following Danseys Pass Road, it's mostly a gentle climb along a well-maintained gravel road to the hotel. The ride offers some spectacular views across iconic Central Otago landscapes with Mount Buster dominating the skyline as well as some fascinating geological formations along the Kyeburn River. You'll also pass Glenshee Station, the high-country farm made famous by Eden Hore and his incredible collection of lavish haute couture fashion.
Whilst New Zealand was being settled by early European pioneers, there was a series of strategically placed ‘Coach Inns’ where horse drawn coaches could break up long journeys. Danseys Pass Hotel is one of the only remaining historic coach inns still operating in New Zealand. The Hotel was built in 1863 and for a time was the centre of all activities in the district.
Legend has it, that a stonemason called Happy Bill who constructed the stone building in schist, took his payment in beer, with a pint for every schist boulder shaped and laid on the thick walls!
Note: it pays to call ahead or check opening times of the Danseys Pass Hotel.
It always pays to check that the Danseys Pass Road is open, especially in winter when it's subject to heavy snowfall.
The geography on Danseys Pass Road is fascinating - clay cliffs along the Kye Burn.
The network of roads whilst remote are well signed.
Mt Buster and iconic Central Otago landscape on the way back to Naseby from Danseys Pass
Rolling into Danseys Pass Hotel
The picturesque Danseys Pass Hotel
Big sky country on the backcountry roads near Naseby
Downhill back into Naseby
Kyeburn Diggings Cemetery
Kyeburn Diggings Cemetery is an interesting stop on the way to Danseys Pass.
Founded in the Goldrush of the 1860's, the town once boasted a public school with up to 60 children and a hotel. Little now remains of this once thriving mining settlement except for its cemetery on the Danseys Pass Road below the Kakanui Range.
About 129 burials are known to have occurred at Kyeburn Diggings Cemetery, but only 73 records remain. A fire in 1912 destroyed the cemetery record book. The cemetery is still used today, albeit infrequently.
Exploring Naseby
The facades of the old stores and buildings in Naseby give a hint to the history of the town. Originally known as Hogburn (one of surveyor Turbull Thomson's 'barnyard' names), it was the earliest settlement in Māniatoto, and New Zealand’s smallest independently governed town for a number of years.
The 1863 gold rush saw a peak of 5,000 miners settle in the town within less than 12 months and in its heyday, Naseby had 22 hotels, a hospital, a school, courthouse, a jail and even a racing club.
Today, the pace of life is much slower in Naseby but you can find out more about its rowdy, frontier-like former life at the fascinating Māniatoto Early Settlers Museum next to the Royal Hotel or on the Destination Naseby website.
Whilst the Goldrush might be over, there is still gold to be found in Naseby, and one such nugget which we discovered was Dust Movies - a community cinema located next to the Stardust art gallery. This rustic and quirky movie theatre plays classic old movies on a Saturday which are free to watch. Usually there's a kids matinee movie, followed by a feature for adults in the early evening. You're welcome to BYO and have a glass of wine during the show, but please don't take any food. Either check in the window of the cinema to see what's being screened or visit their Facebook page.
If you prefer a more active form of evening entertainment, then Naseby's famous indoor ice curling rink makes for a fun - if somewhat competitive - way to work up an appetite before dinner.
Although the town no longer boasts 22 hotels, there are lots of accommodation options and a good selection of places to eat. The huge burgers at the Royal Hotel are not to be missed after a long day on the bike. Great coffee and a big breakfast at the Black Forest cafe will fuel you for a day of exploring the backroads.
Dust Movies in the heart of Naseby is free!
Now screening....
Sunday - Waipiata Country Hotel
Whilst Waipiata will already be known to anybody that's ridden the Rail Trail, for the uninitiated, this small town with a population of about 20 has become famous for one thing...
Pies... and big ones!
In fact, Stuff just recently published a story dedicated to the small town's enormous pastry clad delicacies!
You can string together a very scenic 50km return loop ride from Naseby to Waipiata on a mix of quiet gravel roads and a short section of the Rail Trail itself. You'll definitely appreciate riding back to Naseby to burn off some calories after indulging in one of the pies from the Waipiata Country Hotel, which has affectionately become known as 'WaiPIEata' to the legions of riders which have enjoyed a stopover at this icon of the Rail Trail.
If you don't think you can pedal back to Naseby weighed down by pies, then the Hotel also offers a range of accommodation options... so you can stay the night and have a second pie for dinner!
The huge pies at Waipiata have put the small town on the map
The Otago Central Rail Trail near Waipiata
Scenic views looking down on the Otago Central Rail Trail near Waipiata
Quiet, scenic backroads between Naseby and Waipiata
Iconic Central Otago landscapes near Naseby
There are literally hundreds of kilometres of backcountry gravel roads waiting to be explored by mountain bikers and riders on the Otago Central Rail Trail. So, start by finding a great country pub, winery or cool cafe, and then work backwards to weave together a route of your own.
The map below traces our pub-to-pub route whilst staying in Naseby.
Related Stories
-
Coronet Loop Lite
A shortened version of the Coronet Loop starting from Skippers Saddle and finishing in Arrowtown.
Read more about Coronet Loop Lite -
Bridges of the Otago Trails
Otago Bridges - a travel guide for walkers and cyclists
Read more about Bridges of the Otago Trails -
Best Things Along Dunedin Harbour Cycleway
11 of the best things to see and do along the new Dunedin Harbour Cycleway.
Read more about Best Things Along Dunedin Harbour Cycleway -
The Cairnmuir Circuit
A classic Central Otago mountain bike or gravel bike loop ride, including the Lake Dunstan Trail.
Read more about The Cairnmuir Circuit -
Rail:Lines
A pedal-powered poetry tour of the Otago Central Rail Trail with 1964 magazine.
Read more about Rail:Lines -
The Queenstown Trail - A Multi-Day Excursion
Queenstown’s Great Ride explores 130km of off-road trails and can be completed in a day, in sections, or over multiple days – the choice is yours.
Read more about The Queenstown Trail - A Multi-Day Excursion -
Dunedin - a Ride at the Seaside
Discovering great beaches and even better craft beers along Dunedin's Harbour Cycleway and Coastal Rides.
Read more about Dunedin - a Ride at the Seaside -
11 of the Best Short Walks in Otago
11 of the best short walks in Otago and close to the cycle trails, ranging from 30 minutes up to 3 hours.
Read more about 11 of the Best Short Walks in Otago -
Backcountry for Beginners
The Mount Ida Water Race is a great backcountry mountain bike ride for beginners.
Read more about Backcountry for Beginners -
The Best Pies in Otago
A guide to the best pies in Otago along the cycle trails.
Read more about The Best Pies in Otago -
Marauding Magpies
Tips for cyclists to avoid swooping magpies this spring.
Read more about Marauding Magpies
